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Posts from the ‘Food’ Category

No. 134: Chocolate Celebration

Paris Chocoloate

“He showed the words ‘chocolate cake’ to a group of Americans and recorded their word associations. ‘Guilt’ was the top response. If that strikes you as unexceptional, consider the response of French eaters to the same prompt: ‘celebration’.”

Michael Pollan, In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto

Scottish Chocolate

I know that most of us carry around emotional baggage tied to food and that there are plenty of French women (and men) who see food as the enemy, but I do find this cultural difference between the above word associations thought-provoking.

It does my body good to luxuriate in an exquisite piece of chocolate or share an artisanal pastry in a special moment, in the right atmosphere, rather than guiltily guzzling down a dozen of quelque chose in front of my computer.

gâteau au chocolat Paris

After 2 ½ years in France, I’m getting better and better at thinking of chocolate (and other foods) as a celebration and choosing smaller portions and higher quality foods over huge and highly processed junk.

….a massive 7-lb American chocolate cake from COSTCO...

….a massive 7-lb American chocolate cake from COSTCO…

Old habits die hard, but I find that this particular bad habit is easier to break en France.

…a much smaller, and far more expensive and delicious gâteau au chocolat (55€-$75), one could only afford for a true celebration...

…a much smaller, and far more expensive and delicious gâteau au chocolat (55€-$75), one could only afford for a true celebration…

Vocabulaire

en France: in France

quelque chose: something, anything

No. 131: Le Jour des Crêpes

While Americans waited (and saw) Punxsutawney Phil’s furry shadow today, the French were busy getting ready for le jour des crêpes, or la Chandeleur.

In Catholic France, Chandeleur marks the purification of Mary and the presentation of the baby Jesus to the Roman temple 40 days after his birth. It is known as the day of hope and light, and in the church is celebrated with heaps of candles and a procession.

So, where do the crêpes come in?

crêpes

Savoury crêpes are actually called galettes (and are made with buckwheat) this is a galette de blé noir au saumon fumé that we enjoyed today to celebrate the day.

Well apparently this candle lighting and procession marching has been going on for a very, very long time in the Christian world. At some point early on, the ruling Pope wanted to reward and fortify the pilgrims who came all the way to Rome to celebrate the festa candelarum, so he offered up crêpes to his flock.

Crêpes Suzette

This tradition stuck, and now each year, the French eat crêpes on February 2, forty days after Christmas. Games are played with flipping crêpes with one hand while holding a coin in the other, to predict your family’s prosperity…expert one-hand flippers with strong wrists required, please…

…and it is also the day to predict whether or not winter is ending, or if 40 more days of chilly weather are in the future.

Here are a couple of French proverbs that sum things up:

Chandeleur couverte, quarante jours de perte.

Candlemas covered (in snow), forty days are lost (to winter).

Rosée à la Chandeleur, hiver à sa dernière heure.

Dew on Candlemas, winter is in its final hour.

Now, I couldn’t find any proverbs about brilliant sunshine and blue, blue skies, but this is what it looked like in Paris today:

Chinese New Year Celebration, Hôtel de Ville, Paris 2014

Chinese New Year Celebration, Hôtel de Ville, Paris 2014

So, I’m thinking that winter is in its final hours à Paris.

Sorry Punxsutawney, but I’ll take the crêpes and the sunshine, while you retreat back into your burrow and wait for the freeze to end.

Crêpes Suzette à la Hélène

Crêpes Suzette à la Hélène

No. 129-130: Becoming a Fabophile and One Last Kings’ Cake

I told you if I had grown up in France, I would probably be one of those crazy cat ladies, who instead of collecting cats, would be an extreme collector of fèves. Alas, just look at me now with my first real Galette des Rois season officially winding down, not only did I manage to share seven cakes this month, approximately one every 4 days, I also found the fève four times, and got to be queen for the day, or at least the evening, once a week.

féves

I consider this my first real Galette des Rois season, because prior to this January, I had no idea there was such a thing as a fabophile, or that there were entire websites and conventions devoted to this hobby. I come by this predilection honestly. My father, aka, the Grand Poobah, was a rabid collector of toys, and lived by the slogan, “The One with the Most Toys, Wins”. I think my maman would have been much happier if he only collected fèves. They take up a lot less room.

The Grand Poobah (and collector) with Kitcat, 1995

The Grand Poobah (and collector) with Kitcat, 1995

On top of the four fèves I won fair and square, I may also have purchased just a few (and been given some super tacky ones as a gift).

tacky féves

Okay. I’ll come clean. I spent 3 hours on a lovely, albeit, slightly fanatical, woman’s website exchanging franglaise messages about her collection. Obsessed with French pastries and pâtisseries, I finally decided on this delectable assortment of teeny tiny pastries. I paid a bit more than I should have, but my new friend, I reasoned, needed the money for a better set of fèves for herself.

féves pastries

They arrived tout de suite with a nice hand written note, and an extra surprise collection.

So, with one official fève season under my belt, I already have 20 little beans to use for my homemade Galette des Rois next year, as, bien sûr, I took another Galette des Rois cooking course last week.

féves

This time we learned to make it with frangipane cream: almond cream plus pastry cream. It was the best galette I’ve had to date, better than the bakers, and a heck of a lot cheaper.

…the last Galette des Rois of the season...

…the last Galette des Rois of the season…

The only snag with this fine homespun galette was that we forgot to put a fève in it. Drat! It’s decidedly likely I would have come away with one last treasure to add to my burgeoning collection.

(Please check back in a couple of days for one last recipe for one last Kings’ Cake.)

Vocabulaire:

fabophile: collector of fèves

fève: fève bean, broad bean; the prize inside the Galette des Rois

franglaise: French and English mixed

Galette des Rois: Kings’ Cake, eaten on Epiphany and throughout January.

pâtisseries: pastry shops

tout de suite: immediately

No. 128: maman gâteau

maman gâteau:

femme très attentionnée, qui fait des cadeaux; a very caring/attentive woman who gives presents…

soft, indulgent mother/woman...

I’m not feeling too confident about my French today after yesterday’s post, but I came across this phrase yesterday when I was reading. Not quite sure exactly what it meant,  I went in search of a definition. The second definition: soft, indulgent mother/woman…made more sense in the context of what I was reading. If I’m on target, the phrase makes me smile, because the literal translation is “cake mom” or “mom of cake”…

Who wouldn’t want a cake mom?

source: lejournaldemllem.canalblog.com

source: lejournaldemllem.canalblog.com

Vocabulaire

maman gâteausoft, indulgent mother; but literally, cake mother

maman: mom; mother

No. 124: Bone Marrow

Humanoids have been feasting on bone marrow for nearly two million years. I, on the other hand, only became acquainted with it about two months ago, and lately it seems to be a consistent offering on my plate.

My first go with it was at a lunch lesson that featured Daube Provençale, a hearty pork stew made with pork cheeks, pork belly and a delicious homemade beef broth prepared with beef bones.

l'apéro avant la Daube Provençale

l’apéro avant la Daube Provençale

When we finished making the broth, we kept the beef bones, and as an appetizer we spread the marrow on a sliced,  crusty baguette and sprinkled it with a wee bit of sea salt. C’est délicieux! Subtle, a bit sweet, très riche, with a velvety nuttiness, no, this treat should not be carelessly disregarded.

bone marrow

Vite! Vite! Head to your nearest boucher and pick up your bones today. 

daube provençale

Click here for the delicious Daube Provençale recipe.

 

Vocabulaire

boucher: butcher

C’est délicieux! It’s delicious!

très riche: very rich

Vite! Vite! Quick! Quick!

No. 121: Profiteroles

Cream puffs filled with ice cream (usually vanilla) and topped with hot chocolate sauce—that is what the French call profiteroles. Supposedly Catherine de Medici (wife of the French King Henri II) was the first to have a slightly more modest version of this dessert, a pastry puff filled with whipped cream, or as we Americans know them, cream puffs.

Over the centuries, ice cream and chocolate sauce were added to make this delicious and cold treat you will find on most French dessert menus.

profiteroles

The first time I lived in France, I took a course on making pate à choux, fell in love with it (mes petits choux) and since then, profiteroles have been a fan favorite chez nous.

choux pastry profiterole

Once you get the hang of it, it’s really not that hard. They are brilliant with coffee ice cream and caramel beurre à la fleur de sel sauce. For a savory twist, gougères, I make the choux with different types of cheeses (Comté & Bleu d’Auvergne, j’adore) and fresh herbs.

If you want to make Géraldine’s yummy recipes, click the links below:

PROFITEROLE

GOUGÈRES

 

Vocabulaire:

caramel beurre à la fleur de sel: buttered caramel with sea salt

chez nous: at our house

gougères: savory choux pastry mixed with cheese

j’adore… I love…

mes petits choux: my little cream puffs (a term of endearment not just for pastry)

pâte à choux: a standard puff pastry that can be either sweet or savory, literally cabbage dough; also know as pâte à chaud (heated dough)

No. 118-119: Spéculoos and le Musée du quai Branly Combined

Out and about this morning and in search of a birthday gift for Charlotte, my favorite soon to be 4-year-old, I decided to pop into la librairie du Musée du quai Branly and take a peek at their unique collection of gifts. Much to my delight, I came across this in the children’s book section:

Spéculoos! La quête/Spéculoos! the Quest

Spéculoos! La quête/Spéculoos! the Quest

When I first spied it, I thought surely, there must be another meaning for the word Spéculoos that I don’t know. Mais non!

Speculoos

This is actually a tale of an extraordinarily happy, rotund and spoiled princess from a magical far eastern land who is saved by Spéculoos!

The princess leads a grandiose life. When she wakes up, she nibbles cake and pralines. For dinner she gobbles pralines and cake, and for dessert, she savors ice cream with pralines. Mais un jour, la Princesse n’eut plus faim/but one day, the princess was no longer hungry. Well, this certainly makes her very sad and she cries for a very long time. Not one single soul in the entire kingdom can find a cure for her sickness.

But then one day Maurice, le ménestrel de la Cour, who, naturally, is profoundly in love with princess, has an idea. He will go to the sorcière, and ask if he has any ancient potions to cure his secret love. And this is what the sorcerer tells him:

J’ai ce qu’il te faut, une très vieille recette de biscuit, mais qui agit mieux qu’une potion/I have what you need, a very old cookie recipe, that is better than any potion. 

…and the cookie that’s better than a magic potion? Spéculoos, obviously.

Speculoos

So he travels dans des contrées lointaines pour ramener le gingembre, le clou de girofle, la cannelle, la cardamone et la muscade/to distant lands to find the ginger, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom and nutmeg. Upon hearing about his plan and envisioning the recipe, the princess falls instantly and madly in love with her hero.

From Nigeria to Zanzibar, to India and the red Orient, and onward to Sri Lanka and the Indonesian archipelago, love struck Maurice diligently gathers the indispensible spices.

Upon his return he bakes her the cookies (as can Charlotte, by following along with the simple recipe)…

…et en goûtant le Spéculoos, la Princesse avait retrouvé toute sa gaieté. Mais plus que le biscuit, c’était le courage de Maurice qui l’avait conquise/and upon tasting the Speculoos, the princess’ cheerfulness was restored. But more than the cookies, it was the courage of Maurice that conquered her malady and won her heart.

Speculoos

Awww…shucks….

I have to say, I’ve had some days where Speculoos is as good as, if not better, than any other magic potion to chase away the blues. I’m glad the Musée Branly thinks so too!

Spéculoos

But if you don’t like Spéculoos, the Quai Branly Museum has plenty of other nifty and colorful gifts for you to choose from.

Vocabulaire

la librairie du Musée du quai Branly: the bookshop at the Branly Museum

le ménestrel de la Cour: the court minstrel

Mais non! But, no!

sorcière: sorcerer