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Posts from the ‘Food’ Category

No. 24: Less Fast Food on Offer

…but sadly, a growing industry in France…

As I continue my unanticipated one-week sojourn in America, I am still overwhelmed. I am flabbergasted by the amount of fast food on offer in the land of the free.

flicker.com

flicker.com

I have a 15 minute drive to the YMCA where I have been working out. This morning as I drove my 10 miles, I passed 16 different fast food establishments. I am not in the part of the country where I grew up and there are certainly some interesting choices I’ve never heard of : Eggroll Hut Filipino, Five Guys Burgers & Fries, Captain D’s Seafood Kitchen, Checker’s Drive in, and Churches Chicken, but so far, I haven’t been tempted. However, I seem to be the only one sticking to green smoothies at breakfast time.  Each and every one of the fast food  chains I drove by had at least three or four cars lined up at the drive-thru and more than a large handful of cars in the parking lots…and it was only 7:00 am.

According to statisticbrain.com, as of April 2013, the number of fast food restaurants in America was 160,000, with 50 million Americans served each day and an annual fast food revenue of $110 Billion. Truly, une véritable catastrophe! I know that fast food is the reality in the US and a huge industry, but I really hate to see it making headway into France.

quel dommage...the French are lovin' it too...

quel dommage…the French are lovin’ it too…

Yes, it turns out my France, the country I so often associate with gastronomie and fresh ingredients, is being propped up by fast-food revenues. Fast food chains, according to NPR, now account for 54 percent of all restaurant sales in France. Bon sang! It breaks my heart. There are now more than  a 1,200 McDonald’s in France, which is only 199 shy of what the grand ol’ state of Texas (roughly the same size as France) boasts.

Quel dommage! It really bums me out.

source: aht.seriouseats.com - by j.edwards

source: aht.seriouseats.com – by j.edwards

Still, I am grateful all these other chains have not yet made it across the ocean. I hope that France grows more of a backbone, and remembers that real food and real ingredients can continue to define their country, if only they don’t give in…

Vocabulaire

Bon sang! Damn, damn it!

gastronomie: gastronomy

Quel dommage! What a shame! That’s too bad.

une véritable catastrophe: a real disaster/catastrophe

No. 20-23: Less is More

I had to make an unexpected trip to the USA this week.

After trying so hard to get into my French life and gearing my family up for what is sure to be another adventure-filled year in gay Par-ee, this trip back to the land of the LARGE and PLENTY has really thrown me for a loop. I have found it difficult to concentrate and be productive. There is so much STUFF in America to get distracted by; it’s hard to focus. Is it any wonder that we hand out anti-anxiety and ADHD medication like candy on Halloween?Halloween candy

I do love the fact that in France, there still appears to be some restraint, and maybe even a sense of national pride in the idea that LESS is more. In general, in France quality surpasses quantity, and I find there are a good many Frenchies committed to this idea.

Here are a few of the larger things I have encountered in the last week in America and the smaller counterparts I enjoy in France:

No. 20: Smaller Shops & Les Petites Boutiques Familiales

For those of you who live in the USA or have visited, I have one word for you: Costco.

For those of you who have never been to America, an explanation: Costco Wholesale Corporation is a membership-only warehouse club that provides a wide selection of merchandise; it is the second largest retailer in the United States, the seventh largest retailer in the world and the largest membership warehouse club chain in the United States. (Wikipedia)

Need a couple of pounds of something? How about 10?

Need a couple of pounds of something? How about 10?

and, you can buy everything and anything there…in very LARGE quantities.

I know the megastores are convenient and cheap, but it is such a pleasure (albeit sometimes a pain) to live somewhere where the mom and pop and artisan stores are still thriving right around the corner. Yes, sometimes you have to go to six or seven shops in one day just to get everything you need for a dinner party, but for me it is much more satisfying to frequent these small shops than to shop in a warehouse or strip mall.

No. 21: Product Packaging

Jumbo tunaI haven’t quite figured out what I would do with 4lbs 2 ½ oz (2 kg) of tuna, although I if I had the space in my tiny Parisian freezer I could finish 6.75 lbs  (3.1 kg) of edamame ( j’adore edamame).IMG_1574

With Thanksgiving and Christmas just around the corner, I suppose I could finish a 3 lbs (1.4 kg) bag of fresh cranberries, if I had the time (and American oven) to make cranberry bread for my whole apartment building.Cranberries

And, look at this, Costco has even taken on the French Macaron, and prepackaged an entire pound of these artisanal French cookies…imagine the money I could save as macarons are 2 euros ($3) a pop in Paris.  What would Ladurée say?Macarons

No 22: Fewer Choices

As my trip was last-minute and I needed to quickly pack a small carry-on, I forgot to bring some of my toiletries. So, my first stop was the “small” local grocery store. All I needed was shampoo. Once I finally tracked down the shampoo aisle, I froze.  I stared. I panicked. My breath sped up. There was so much frickin’ shampoo! I almost lost my nerve.product

It only took me 30 minutes to decide, and I’m happy to report, I do have clean hair now, but choosing wasn’t easy.

No 23: Fewer Sales

After staying in the USA for more than a week, I realized how much sales drive our consumer culture and influence my personal shopping habits. Returning to this always-a-sale craze, I now understand how much this phenomenon contributes to our country’s economy (and debt).ann-taylor-loft-sale1

In France les soldes (the sales) are few and far between. In fact they are state-regulated and are held only twice a year, mid-June and early January. They last for around six weeks and prices are continually slashed over the weeks, ending with the dregs being sold for as low as 90 percent off regular prices. I usually go shopping once or twice during these 6-week periods, and come away with one or two precious finds.

In contrast, in America something is always on sale, and often at a pretty steeply discounted rate. I am not sure if it was my anxious state of mind due to the unexpected nature of my visit back, but my sales-shock, drove me to purchase (and then return) things I really had no room or need for back in Paris. (Thank goodness for carry-on luggage restrictions!) Still, it did get me thinking about how sales contribute to America’s insatiable desire to own and consume.

All in all, I find that the less-is-more mentality in France makes me very happy. I’m glad to be constantly reminded that quality is so much more important than quantity.

Vocabulaire

j’adore edamame: I love edamame (soybeans)

les petites boutiques familiales: mom and pop stores

les soldes: the sales

No. 18: Fruits de mer

Poissonnerie

I love the French word for seafood: fruits de mer. Fruit from the sea. It’s the perfect way to describe the many colorful and sometimes bizarre fish and shellfish found in France.

Some of my favorite crustacean friends are: crabs, lobster, langoustines, mussels, oysters, octopus, scallops, shrimp and urchins. I use “friends” in the loosest sense, as I am actually a bit afraid of most of them. But thankfully I have just discovered a new word in French: décortiqué, peeled or shelled. So now when I go to a restaurant at least I know that if I don’t see that magic word on the menu, the waiter will be bringing me a plate with the heads and legs still attached to the little guys I ordered, their beady little eyes staring me down.Fish at market

At any of the large outdoor market in France, you are sure to find at least two or three stands selling the fresh catch of the day. The hard part is figuring out what the heck the French word is for the few types of seafood I actually recognize, and then screwing up the courage to order it from le poissonnier. Once you get over that hump, you’re still not quite finished. Now you have to figure out how you want it prepared, which for me, is actually a real luxury. I have so many memories of standing on a chair next to my daddy in front of the kitchen sink gutting and scaling fresh Colorado trout, I am quite happy to have someone else take over.FIsh

Luckily the handy French phrase: Pourriez-vous me le préparer s’il vous plâit, seems to do the trick…until he asks me just how I want it prepared. Bones out? Gills removed? Heads to make soup? Shells and skins for the stock? I think, although I can’t be sure, I’ve even been given advice on what to use the eyeballs for.

Oh, la vache! Someday I hope my French is good enough to answer these questions, but for now, a generous smile and a frequent merci bien is working well enough.

oursin/ sea urchin

oursin/ sea urchin

Vocabulaire:

 décortiqué: peeled or shelled

le poissonnier:  fishmonger

merci bien: thanks a lot

Oh, la vache! Holy cow!

Pourriez-vous me le préparer s’il vous plait: Could you please prepare it for me (which usually implies gutting, scaling and deboning)

No. 17: Edith Piaf

www.cineoutsider.comToday is the 50th anniversary of the death of the celebrated cabaret singer Edith Piaf.

Over the last nine months, there have been numerous Piaf tributes both in France and around the world. I have been a little bit surprised by this because while I (as an expat and Francophile) see her as a national treasure, I guess I suspected that the French saw her only as one BIG French cliché.

Think of France, and especially Paris, and what comes to your mind? Outdoor cafés, baguettes, buttery croissants, men is blue and white striped shirts, women in floral dresses riding bicycles, cigarettes, berets, strolling along the Seine, wine, cheese, shared kisses by the Eiffel Tower… and all with the music of Edith playing in the background. For some reason I thought the French had outgrown her, even moved on, and maybe preferred to be associated with what’s good and modern in France today.

I was quite mistaken. This morning the anniversary of her death was a lead story on all the major news channels. Each story was a touching tribute to a post-war icon, “a symbol of French passion and tenacity.”

Marche Av Saxe

Mme vendeuse de légumes sings la vie en rose

Then while shopping at the marché a few hours later, my favorite vendeuse, and purveyor of the best and most beautiful produce, was cheerily helping her customers while exuberantly singing La vie en rose…

…it was so lovely and so charming and exactly why I love living in France.

Listen along to hear Edith singing it herself in 1954.

Vocabulaire:

La vie en rose: Life through rose-colored glasses, literally: life in pink

vendeur/vendeuse: vendor, seller, salesperson

No. 15: Salade de chèvre chaud

salade de chèvre chaud croustillant

salade de chèvre chaud croustillant

Before I moved to Paris, my only experience with goat cheese was those small white logs of pasteurized cream cheese-like stuff, hermetically sealed in a thick, clear plastic casing, with annoying plastic green leaves pressed along the sides.

Thankfully in France there are somewhere around 400 different types of cheese, so one can only assume a large number of those are chèvre. The Frenchies seem to be crazy for chèvre, and so am I.

Nearly every time I go out to lunch with a Parisienne (female), one of us orders a salade de chèvre. As everyone in Paris (male or female) is concerned about their weight, somehow the goat cheese salad has become a mythical weight loss entrée for at least the women. (Calorie-wise, I’m not so sure.) Calorie count or not, all those French goats and their delicious cheese, make it very easy to add salade de chèvre to my list of 365-things-I-love-about-France.

There are two main goat cheese salads in France: salade de chèvre chaud and salade de chèvre chaud croustillant. My favorite is croustillant, but the main thing is to make sure it is chaud (warm). There is something about the contrast of the warm cheese with the cold salad greens that knocks the socks right off my tastebuds.

On a simple salade de chèvre chaud the cheese is usually served crouton-style on thin, toasted slices of baguette. On the more decadent salade de chèvre chaud croustillant, the goat cheese comes wrapped in phyllo dough with a slight hint of honey and rosemary. Heavenly!

Here’s an anglicized recipe from Mademoiselle Slimalicious (one of my new favorite blogs, written by a French expatriate in Australia). Bon appétit!

Vocabulaire:

chaud: hot, warm

chèvre: goat

croustillant: crispy, crusty 

No. 14: Olives

Olives! Olives! Olives! You’ve got to love olives if you live in France.olives

Superman and Button are fond of having olive eating contests, so I need to keep the fridge stocked. It’s not unusual to find a mound of pits, neatly arranged on someone’s salad plate chez nous, or a newly clipped recipe ready to be shared, the starring role played by an olive.

olivesFor my family, olives are one of the many pleasures of living in France. Every open air market is full of fabulous, colorful olives. In fact more than a hundred varieties of olive trees are cultivated here. I find that simply amazing. I’m already overwhelmed by the 15-20 choices I have each week as I faire les courses at my favorite marché, I can’t imagine having to choose between an assortment of another eighty.olives2012

Vocabulaire

chez nous: at our house

faire les courses: to do the shopping; run errands

le marché: the market, usually refers to an open air market

No. 8: My Nespresso

NespressoI wasn’t always a coffee snob, in fact, I’m not sure that I am one. I’m pretty inexperienced. I’ve only been drinking coffee for a few years, turned on to the benefits of possibly staving off Parkinson’s disease, as it runs in my family. Watching my maman decline and eventually die from this dignity denying disease, I have chosen to cling to any remedy that offers a hope of preventing me from succumbing as well. So naturally when I saw the recent studies showing a link between prevention of Parkinson’s and coffee drinking, I very easily picked up the daily habit of drinking two café noisettes. (Which by the way has nothing to do with hazelnuts.)

I say easily, because it such a part of the French culture to have a coffee. They drink their coffees standing in the morning at a bar, sitting in a brasserie for lunch, reclining at their cafés at teatime, and of course, luxuriously finishing their final cup after dinner at a resto with a pack of cigarettes.

The Frenchies aren’t so much of  a coffee culture as they are a café culture, and I think that’s where things have gone wrong in regards to a good cup of Joe. I’m not sure it matters to them what they are drinking as much where they are drinking it, and with whom. There have been many an article and blog post written about the regretfully awful coffee served in France, with headlines ranging from bad to worse: Why is French Coffee so Bad?  How the French Ruined Coffee, and my favorite, How Not to Drink Black Tar in Paris.

But there is still hope. When I asked my Italian friend Sarah where to get a good cup of coffee in Paris, she said, and I quote, “There are only two places I can recommend: Coutume on rue de Babylone and the Fiat dealership (yes, no kidding, they have a bar there!!!) on the Rond Point des Champs Elysees”.

Guess I better buy a Fiat.Coffee3

Vocabulaire:

 

un café noisette: An espresso with a little bit of hot milk.

une noisette: a hazelnut

un restau: a cool way to say restaurant