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Finding Paris in Chicago

I have been traveling non-stop since I returned from Paris and collecting photos of “French America”.

I came across this awkwardly shaped piece of the Notre Dame de Paris embedded in the Tribune Tower. Inspired by the Button Tower of the cathedral at Rouen, France, “the Tribune Tower exemplifies the way American architects have elevated office buildings to sacred status.” 

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The base of the Tribune Tower contains 120 stones from important locations all around the world, including the Parthenon, in Greece; the pyramids, in Egypt; the Taj Mahal, in India; the Alamo, in San Antonio; the Great Wall of China; Injun Joe Cave in Missouri, and of course a piece from Paris’ grand dame.

Is that a gargoyle’s nose? I hope so.

I love Chicago’s architecture. Who doesn’t? So much tradition blended with startling metal and glass. It is especially fabulous on a rare blue-skied spring day. It was wonderful to catch up with my lovely girls and take Kitcat out for her first legal drink stateside.

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Cheers!

Another Distributeur…Crossing the Line, Encore…

What the heck? First the DAB, and now this? France you’re killin’ me! S’il vous plaît, stick to your artisans. They make France so wonderfully French.

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Distributeur Automatique de Baguette

baguette_dispenser_automatique_distributeur_de_pain_paris_1.jpgThe French are know for some pretty innovative breakthroughs: hot air balloon and hairdryers, pasteurization and pencil, mayonnaise and the metric system, and bicycles, Braille and bras. The Gauls gave us the guillotine and are also accountable for the Etch-a-Sketch. But the jury is still out on the recent brainchild of French baker, inventor and entrepreneur, Jean-Louis Hecht, the 2014 winner of the Concours Lépine—the French invention challenge held each spring at the Foire de Paris.

His invention? Le Distributeur Automatique de Baguette (DAB) or what I like to call the Baguette ATM.

When this contraption popped up in my Facebook newsfeed a few weeks ago, I was stunned. Zut alors! A baguette vending machine in the land of artisanal bakers? Sacrilege! I knew I had to see this with my own eyes to believe it.

A quick Google search yielded two addresses: one in the 19eme arrondissement and one in the 15eme. The automatic boulangerie in the 15eme turned out to be a short walk from my Pilates studio, so I grabbed my good friend Rachel and we made the trek.

When we arrived at La Panamette, 32 rue Paul Barruel, we found two dispensers filled with partially baked baguettes—one ready and willing to dispense. We drop our €1 coin, and after 10 seconds, it dropped our baton. I was expecting something more dramatic, and certainly more aromatic, unfortunately it was rather anticlimactic. The machines, swathed in bright pictures of a beret-clad lad wielding his wand among the wheat, were not much different than the chip and candy dispensers from home.

While online reviews promise “crisp and steaming” or “warm and crusty” bread, ours was warm(ish) and chewy, on the verge of being crisp, a super marché quality baguette.

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That said, I understand the concept. It addresses a real need. While I wasn’t won over by the taste and texture of this bread, these round-the-clock boulangeries do allow people who work evenings or early mornings to enjoy fresh, warm bread when their friendly bakers lock up shop. In fact, his closed bakery doors are what inspired Hecht, a baker of 57 years, to design the DAB in the first place. Living over his boulangerie, in Hombourg-Haut, he was often disturbed by desperate customers knocking on his door after hours demanding bread. Wanting to spend uninterrupted time with his family and not wanting to worry about closing up for vacation, the idea was born. In addition to more sleep and quality family time, Hecht also hopes that his machines will shorten the queues for buying bread and reclaim the towns of France where the baker has disappeared.

I personally love the anticipation of lining up at my local boulangerie and inspecting the visual and scented edible art, but maybe that’s just an expat experience. To me the DAB is purely a novelty in this land that does bread so well. I’ll wait in line and stick to the real deal.

…lining up for a baguette...

…lining up for a baguette…

Meanwhile, I’m keeping my eyes peeled for the machines dispensing Dom Pérignon in juice boxes.

Chocolat Chaud

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As a child growing up in a Catholic family, I often chose to give up chocolate for Lent. Looking back it wasn’t a huge sacrifice because, one, I came from a very modest background and chocolate was already a rare treat, and two, the only chocolate we ever had either came in the form of a large block HERSHEY’S bar or Nesquik, the chocolate flavored drink mix which promised to “make milk fun” and enhance your muscle mass.

I imagine that for a child growing up in this Catholic land of artisan chocolatiers, with so many cold and dreary days leading up to Easter, the thought of snuggling up with a warm cup of herbal tea for 40 days rather than a lavish, velvety mug of hot chocolate must be daunting.

The origins of this dreamy, creamy drink are exotic for sure.

mamie_gateaux_hot_chocolate_paris.jpgMontezuma’s Aztecs were the first to brew this delectable drink, which they called Xocolatl. Sipped singularly by the ancient elite, life was grand in Aztec-land. That is until Hernan Cortez dropped by in 1517 and was mistakenly offered a nip of their elixir. Impressed and obsessed with the luxury beverage, he conquered their entire kingdom.

Recipe in hand and cocoa beans in the bag, Cortez returned to Spain and brewed up a batch for Charles V. Initially the Spanish royals were less than thrilled with the dark, bitter liquid, but with the addition of sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla beans, they soon were smitten.

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The chocolate tonic hit the French court following the marriage of King Louis XIII to the Spanish Princess Anne of Austria in 1615; and when the Spanish Princess Maria Theresa (the original chocolate addict) was betrothed to Louis XIV of France, chocolate became the drink of choice for the Sun King at Versailles.

Nowadays, hot chocolate is obviously accessible to the masses, but that doesn’t mean the French have to suffer through mass-produced hot chocolate. Like so many things in France, chocolat chaud has been elevated to an artisan level.

Enjoy this visual sample of the best cups I’ve savored over the last 4 weeks.

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Please check back next week for my carnet d’adresses.

Vocabulaire:

carnet d’adresses: address book

chocolat chaud: hot chocolate

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Citron Pressé and a Colorado Day

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Oh, the weather gods are making it even harder for me to leave Paris and head back to Colorado in a few short days. If there is one thing that Colorado will always win out in over Paris, it is the weather. There is no contest. The weather in Colorado is fantastic. Three hundred days of sunshine a year is pretty hard to beat.

On the other hand Paris in February averages 2 hours and 54 minutes of sunshine a day, in March it jumps to a little over 5 hours per day (which also happens to be the annual average for daily sunshine in Paris—given that November, December and January each average less than 2 hours of sunshine a day).

But the last few days in Paris have been crisp and blue and beaming with sun. It is Paris at its Colorado best.

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I probably jumped the gun today. But it was so warm and sunny and bright. I temporarily took a break from the difficult work of trying to find the city’s best hot chocolate (stay tuned), to instead sun myself at a café and indulge in a citron pressé.

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C’est parfait!

It’s All French to Me

Could this possibly be the reason for my daily struggle with spoken French?

GraphJam.com

GraphJam.com

Here is a little something for all you non-native French speakers who may be feeling alone in your attempts to master your tongue and contort your face as you brave life in France. Grab some aspirin and take a peek at the Top French Words You’ll Never Pronounce Right as reported in THE LOCAL FR last month. Go ahead, sit down with a teabag and a steaming mug of hot water from your bouilloire (kettle), if you can pronounce it, that is…

More Paris Rainbows

Following up on yesterday’s post on Rue Dénoyez , I thought I would share a few more Paris Rainbows:

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Paris, je t’aime…