Apr 29
I am only a bargain shopper and I really only buy things at the dernière démarque, and I have never bought anything at the Galeries Lafayette, accept a couple of macarons at the in-store Ladurée. But every now and again, when I’m in the neighborhood of the les grands magasins, I like to pop in, look up, and admire the glorious dome.
Vocabulaire
dernière démarque: final markdown
les grands magasins: big department stores
Apr 28
One of my very favorite things about living in Paris is spending Sundays on the Seine and Marne.
Every Sunday if we are both in town and the weather is even marginally nice, Superman and I jump on the Vélibs and head down to the Seine. The former mayor of Paris made it a priority to make the Seine accessible to families sharing a Sunday stroll and fitness enthusiasts alike. Since we fall into both of those categories (plus do not own a car), we are huge fans of ex-Mayor Bertrand Delanoë and his progressive policies to improve the quality of life in Paris. We are especially grateful for all he did to make it so easy to jump on the path (and closed roads) along the Seine and explore life beyond Paris.
After almost three years, we have discovered all sorts of chemins, quaint streets and hamlets, and peaceful riverside breaks. We are now very familiar with the point where the Seine and the Marne split, or merge, depending on how you look at it.
We have discovered that the farther you get from the city centre, the more easily the folk smile and dit “Bonjour”. We have come across a few places we would love to live, and admired some striking river front property.
Our latest fascination is the suburb of Créteil (12km southeast of Paris and part of Val-de-Marne). When you arrive by métro it seems like a gray, university suburb with highrises and little character, but when you arrive by bike along the Marne, it is a whole different story. For two decades, Créteil has been one of France’s “four-flower” Villes et Villages Fleuris. The city flowerbeds, particularly at this time of the year, dazzle.
There are over 70 different species of trees in the “town”, numerous fountains, and even a lake. There is some great architecture, including the Château des Mèches, and gorgeous canal and riverside homes. The residents seem pretty focused on outdoor activities. Families dig in community vegetable gardens and race miniature boats on the canals. We checked in with a kayaking club last week learning to roll. We have come across groups rock climbing and canoeing, fisher people, and of course multitudes of cyclists, runners, and strollers.
Sundays may be a day of rest, but for us it is definitely worth the two-wheeling effort to escape from the city and enjoy the Seine and Marne and a little bit of the “country life”.
Vocabulaire
chemins: paths, trails
dit “Bonjour”: say “Hello”
Apr 27
Another one of the things I love about France is the very different and interesting culture that the Algerian immigrants and citizens bring to this country. The North Africans bring so much color, flavor, and vibrancy to the forever black and often mild palette of Paris.
I was recently reminded of this wonderful Algerian influence when I was exploring the 11éme arrondissement and came across yet another La Bague de Kenza Pâtisserie. The name, “The Ring of Kenza”, as all good names do, has a story attached to it. It has to do with one of the owners losing (and then finding) one of his daughter’s precious rings. I’m not sure why the father had her ring to begin with, but I like to imagine him panicked in the street of Paris, asking every one he came across if they had seen “Kenza’s ring”.
It is fitting that bague means ring, because La Bague de Kenza is filled to bursting with sparkling, pastry jewels, the pâtisseries orientales. Everything behind the glass counter is yummy, but as I am nutty for pistachios, I always go straight for the pochette pistache, chopped pistachio and honey paste tucked into a light pouch of heavenly dough. The marzipan shaped fruit aren’t just delightfully whimsical, they are also every bit as delicious as German marzipan.
As you can imagine these pastry chefs bake with many different incarnations of almonds and dates, and pine nuts make a star appearance in several of my favorites, as do walnuts and coconut. La Bague’s pastries are a nice change of pace from French pastries and perfect as a delicate, and different dessert at your next dinner party. Mildly sweet and exquisitely crafted, it is worth stopping by just for the photo opportunity. And if sweets aren’t your thing, they do a mean tangine and fruity couscous, and don’t forget your mint-leaf tea.
106 rue Saint-Maur, Paris 75011 (Belleville)
Apr 21
Another one of the things I love about France is the country’s dedication to national holidays, especially in the springtime.
While most of my friends and family stateside are back at work today, us lucky folks in France are quietly enjoying Easter Monday sans travail. I remember envying my friends who had kids in Catholic schools when we lived in the Wild West, their children never seemed to be in school.
Now that we live in France, we don’t have to play hooky from school, we can, even as lapsed Catholics, benefit from the excess of sanctioned religious and national holidays during April and May. This is a particularly good year as all the “one-off” spring holidays fall during the week. In fact we only have one full week of school/work during the month of May.
And as I mentioned, today, Easter Monday, is actually a national holiday in this Catholic nation, so even if you’re not a believer, you still get to spend today recovering from the holiday, sort of a vacation from your vacation, which in my opinion is the best way to end a vacation.
Vocabulaire
Lundi de Pâques: Easter Monday
sans travail: without work
Apr 10
I had the opportunity to attend an electrifying vocal concert in Paris last weekend.
As you have probably gathered, I love the performing arts and I try to support my children, my friends, and my friends’ children whenever possible. Last Friday was no exception, but it turned out to be exceptional.
Late as usually, I zoomed down to the Marais to support my friend Andrea in her new choral home: VOICES Choir International. And, boy, am I glad I did. Aside from Button’s run in Pasek and Paul’s EDGES last spring, this was the most inspiring and glee-inducing performance I have seen in France.
VOICES Choir International has been around since 1989 and is headed up by the dynamic Bonnie Woolley, an American vocalist and choral director, who exudes the kind of passion and love for her craft that is almost disarming in the often serious world of choral music. Her smile and wit (even en français) is contagious. With her are 40 talented singers from around the globe who give their all. Their repertoire consists mainly of Negro Spirituals and popular and contemporary Anglo-Saxon music. On Friday, it was dedicated exclusively to Spirituals.
I have never seen a group of musicians enjoy themselves and each other so much. I sat there thinking, “Is this much fun legal?” Together in song, they made it impossible for the audience to sit still. I was reminded of the few times I have attended a Baptist church service in the South. They just needed some fabulously bright and ribboned Sunday hats, and I could have been sitting in the pew with my dear friend Sarah in Knoxville, Tennessee.
Do you know the saying: “Live like there is no tomorrow. Dance like no one is watching. Sing like no one can hear you. Laugh like no one is listening.”
Well VOICES does all of the above, but amplified.
I’m not sure if the Spirit moves them, but JOY certainly does.
Look them up the next time you are in Paris or the next time you need to smile and remember the good. You’ll be delighted you did.
Apr 6
Who says the French aren’t HAPPY and fun? C’est pas vrai!
Take a look at all these happy Frenchies dancing around in Montmartre. I LOVE this. I dare you not to smile (and dance). Thanks to Julie and Meeting the French for reminding me that there is a lot of joy in this country.
Vocabulaire:
Ce n’est pas vrai! (C’est pas vrai!) It’s not true!
Apr 3
365+ Things I Love About France 