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Posts from the ‘Paris’ Category

No. 359-360: M-F and Hélène: the ladies who (make) lunch and (sometimes) spit wine

MF_helene_1.jpgSome of my most cherished memories of my time in France are from the kitchen. I was fortunate to learn about and taste all sorts of global cuisine prepared with love in the homes of remarkable women from all around the world. I was also lucky enough to have the opportunity to spend many delicious days shopping for fresh ingredients at the marché and then learning how to prepare them with the lovely Marie-Françoise and a great group of friends. Yes, when pressed, I would have to say that M-F’s approach to real French family cooking and hands on learning marks some of my most memorable days in Paris.

While in Paris, I also had the great fortune of meeting the marvelous and slightly mischievous Hélène, wine aficionado and friend. Not only has she taught me to appreciate good (and not necessarily expensive) wine, she has also taught me to appreciate life as it comes, warts and all, and to always strive to be in the moment. Those afternoons we spent nose in glass, swirling, slurping and spitting wine and strolling along the Seine were some of the best.

Here’s to my culinary friends:  the ladies who (make) lunch and (sometimes) spit wine.

Vous-allez me manquer.

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Marie Françoise and Hélène (perfectly bilingual) also cater private dinner parties, wine pairings, birthday and  graduations parties in Paris. For more information contact: marie@mariefrancoiseflavors.com

No.354: La nuit à Paris

I love Paris when the sun comes up. I love Paris in the morning as the clouds burn off. I love Paris on a drizzly afternoon. And I even love Paris in the bitter cold dusk. But there is something so dreamy and thrilling about la nuit à Paris.

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Vocabulaire:

la nuit à Paris: Paris at night

No. 353: les Jardins

One thing I admire about the French is their ability to relax and take the time to smell the roses. Paris is full of small and large jardins (426 to be exact) and green space where you can go to recharge and escape the hustle and bustle of big city life. These jardins make Paris a truly livable city and are one of the things we will certainly miss from our life here. Here is a sampling of a few of my favorites.

Les Jardins du Luxembourg surround the Luxembourg Palace built for Marie de Medicis in 1615 (and which now houses the Senate). This huge park never ceases to astonish me with its abundant flowers, sprawling lawns, and gorgeous fountains. There is something for everyone here from toy boat sailing and playgrounds to chess and tennis matches, and of course, the best green reclining chairs found anywhere in Paris–perfect for kicking back, reading, and relaxing.

The Champ de Mars home to my beloved Eiffel Tower is one of my favorite places in Paris. Although it is obviously very touristy, it still feels like a local park. I love my daily walks with Taz through the broad alleyways and flowering trees. It is both a peaceful refuge and a rockin’ party and the perfect place to gather for a picnic.

The Rodin Gardens are another hidden treasure of Paris. Surrounding the house (and now museum) in which Rodin worked, they provide a calm respite from the clatter of the city and are the perfect place to appreciate his magnificent works of art. The Rodin Gardens heighten the beauty of his sculptures and fill my artistic soul.

Le Jardin du Palais Royal has a long royal and not-so-royal history, and at one time was the hotbed of prostitution and revolutionary rumblings. Enclosed by the Palais Royal courtyards and arcades, I like it because it is not an obvious garden, not a garden one notices from a distance. It is truly a quiet retreat, right in the middle of Paris.

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The Bois de Boulogne, a former hunting ground of the kings of France has become the place for Parisians to relax, bike, run, boat and picnic. It is huge and includes the Parc de Bagatelle, the jardins and greenhouses of Auteuil, the Pre-Catelan jardins, and the Zoological jardins. Superman and I ride our bikes there nearly every Sunday. It also has a fabulous network of lakes, perfect for rowing and soaking up the sun.

Les Jardins de Bagatelle situated in the west part of the Bois de Boulogne, has a long and complicated history attached to the French royal family and their “favorites”. Once used as a discreet rural hideout, away from the court, it is now home to some of the most spectacular rose and iris gardens in the world.

Des Jardins des Plantes is a botanical garden located in the 5eme arrondissement between the Paris Mosque, Jussieu University, and the Seine. The National Museum of Natural History is part of this huge complex along with an impressive greenhouse and an animal menagerie.

Les Jardins Albert Kahn were created by Albert Kahn over a period of 15 years from 1895-1910. A believer in universal peace, Kahn created a complex of gardens from around the world including a Japanese garden and village, a French garden, an English garden, a Vosges forest, a blue forest of Atlas cedars and Colorado spruces, and a prairie gold forest.

Le Parc des ButtesChaumont located in to the northeast of the 19eme arrondissement–is the third largest park in Paris. Commissioned by Napoleon directed by Haussmann, and designed by Jean-Charles Alphand—it is full of steep hills (great for rolling), water features, and artificial cliffs and buttes…and you are allowed to sit on the grass.

No. 352: The Paris Plages

paris_plages-beaches.jpgThere is one more cool thing to love about Paris—the Paris Plages. Sunday was the last day of this annual beach party, and remarkably, the moody sun decided to shine for the two hours we were there.

Okay, so it is not quite the Côte d’Azur, but I think it is one fantastic idea to transform a 4-kilometer stretch of the Right Bank of the Seine into a free fanciful faux beach for one month of the year. We have spent a couple of great afternoons on this urban beach enjoying the sand, sun, and gorgeous setting. It seems a bit strange to be lying out on a comfy beach loungers staring up at the Pont Neuf and the Conciergerie contemplating the fate of Marie-Antoinette, but then, this is Paris.

Some pretty great designers must have been involved in developing this concept and the enthusiastic support of the city government doesn’t hurt. Personally, I love all the different types of seating options available. You can choose from blue loungers on a white sand beach to huge colorful bean bags nearly spilling into the river, to large sail-like sun beds made for two, and café chairs on a freshly laid lawn. There are no shortage of things to keep you occupied: ballroom dancing lessons, swimming pools and misters, trampolines and dirt biking, art studios and playgrounds for kids, free massages for adults, foosball and pétanque, and of course, beachside cafés. The street entertainers run the gamut from classical Chinese zither players to opera singers to in-your-face hip-hop troops. If you can’t figure out what to do, you can ask one of the extremely friendly “plagistes”. Or you can simply admire the professional sandcastle builders as they sculpt their masterpieces while you enjoy your speculoos glace.

Ice cream, sand, friends and sunshine equals a perfect day in Paris.

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look what I found! (Check out my previous post: Eiffel’s Red Café Chair Tower.)

 

 

No. 350: Paris Kitsch

I am a sucker for Paris Kitsch for no other reason than it brings color to this capital clothed in black. Sometimes you just need a little sparkle and boldness, and, maybe even some excessive garishness in this subdued city.  paris_kitch.jpg


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No. 347-349: la Madeleine, Madeline, and les Madeleines

Which one is your favorite?

Here’s a yummy Madeleine recipe to try at home.

 

No. 346: The Orient Express

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Only by interrogating the other passengers could I hope to see the light, but when I began to question them, the light, as Macbeth would have said, thickened.

– Hercule Poirot, Murder on the Orient Express

If you are in Paris and you haven’t yet seen the intriguing Once Upon a Time the Orient Express expo at the Institut du Monde Arabe, make your plans now. Its final departure is 31 August 2014, 19h. France’s national railway (SNCF) and the Institut du Monde Arabe worked together to bring this real-life and cinematic legend to the public. Film enthusiasts and vicarious travelers get ready for a nostalgic journey on the extravagant train line.

One of the finest exhibits I have seen, the detailed curators make it easy to imagine those first voguish passengers who boarded the luxurious liner in Paris in 1883 for their 80-hour journey to exotic Constantinople. The train oozes with the old glamor of courtesans and kings, duchesses and diplomats, spies and starlets, smugglers, tycoons, treasure hunters and rogues. It took nearly a year for SNCF to restore the 20th century locomotive used in the film “Murder on the Orient Express”, and they did not spare any expense. Visitors can marvel at the sheer opulence of the era that must have rivaled, if not surpassed, Europe’s finest hotels of the time.

The tour starts inside the Institute with vitrines filled with advertisements, travel documents, luggage and personal items and then continues with fully restored compartments and period clothing. After that you wander back outside to the Seine and board the lavish locomotive beautifully reflected in the institute’s glass-paneled walls.

It is great fun to marvel at the sumptuous wooden paneled corridors and leather-covered ceilings, rich leather armchairs, art deco bars and other early 20th century excesses. The curators have meticulously included all the details: Harry Potteresque newspapers with photographs that come alive with scenes of the time, original china, cutlery, silk sheets, velvet curtains and personal items famous travelers brought aboard.

Look for the steam and listen for the whistle, two weeks left to clamber up the stairs and catch your ride on the Orient Express!

Il était une fois l’Orient Express runs until August 31, 2014 at the Institut du Monde Arabe, 1 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 75005 Paris, France.