Skip to content

Posts from the ‘Food’ Category

No. 151: Quiet Restaurants

The new Paramount Theatre at Emerson University, Boston

The new Paramount Theatre at Emerson University, Boston

After following Button around on a 10-day audition whirlwind tour between Boston and New York City, my appreciation for the quiet and calm restaurants of France has only deepened.

Boston-Conservatory.jpg

Holy Smokes! Eating out in America can be agitating.

Between the throbbing red lights at Lolita’s Mexican Restaurant in Boston and the Vanderbilt in Brooklyn serving up pounding heavy metal music at 11 p.m. on a Sunday evening, my vocal cords and eyeballs could use a rest. There is nothing worse than shouting at your girlfriends or daughter between bites of a fancy meal or $15 cocktails.  So glad we had a kitchen to cook in for most of our days in the States.

The best meal we had was a late-lunch at Legal Seafood in Boston (a chain restaurant of all places) because we arrived at 3 p.m. after the lunch crowd and were the sole guests dining. The lobster rolls and crab cakes were wonderfully fresh and the noise level was limited to two expats using our “French voices”, or our inside voices, which Americans seem to have forgotten how to use inside. To top things off there were no flashing lights, no obnoxious soundtrack imposed on our meal, and no one trying to rush us out so they could give the table to the next guest.

The crab cakes in Boston are amazing...

The crab cakes in Boston are amazing…

Lovely lobster roll

Lovely lobster roll

I know some Anglophones complain about restos being so hush-hush in France and the French squelching the fun out of dinnertime, but I am convinced that the unruffled atmosphere in French restaurants makes French food taste even better, is infinitely better for the digestion, and certainly more conducive to cultivating friendships.  Even in a crowded café the noise levels never require you to raise your voice. I couldn’t imagine the French engaging in a shouting conversation over a meal, and I wish it wasn’t the norm in the States too.

While it is always nice to spend some time in my homeland and there are many things I miss, I am happy to be headed home today and am looking forward to enjoying some serene meals en famille surrounded by quiet French voices.

Vocabulaire:

en famille: with family

restos: short for restaurant

No. 149: Chocolate Covered Candy Bacon: Ce n’est pas possible!

I came across this the other day in Boston...

I came across this the other day in Boston…

Here’s a dessert to desert. It ranks right up there with the deep-fried Twinkie Burger. Jeezel! Only in America, non?

deep-fried-Twinkie-burger. jpg

I’d rather have my sweet “bacon” the way the French do it: marzipan and chocolate…

or, just give me any old French pâtisserie, s’il vous plaît.

french-pastry.jpg

French-pastry2.jpg

No. 145-146: Monsieur Parmentier and One French Woman’s Secret

When the modest pomme de terre arrived in Europe via the Andes Mountains in the 1500s, much like corn in modern day France, they were used only to feed hogs. They were also thought to cause leprosy.

However, in 1772, Monsieur Parmentier, a chemist by training, seeing the benefits of nourishing the famished masses with this compact carbohydrate, came up with a peculiar plot to trick the French into eating this humble tuber.

His plan? To plant a field of potatoes in the outskirts of Paris. His trick? To have arm guards watch over the crops in the daylight, and leave them unprotected when the sun went down. Convinced that the crop in the mysterious field must be valuable, the curious Parisians began to steal the potatoes under the cover of darkness and realized they were pretty darn good for dinner (and lunch and breakfast, I assume).

These days, I can’t imagine French cooking without potatoes. So many French dishes feature or are complimented by these earth apples, and parmentier, pronounced par-maan-tyé, is now used as an adjective to refer to mashed or boiled potatoes in some recipes.

I first became interested in Monsieur Parmentier when my friend Hélène served a delicious Parmentier de Confit de Canard at one of her winetasting. After several months of bugging her for the recipe, she invited a few of us over for a quick cooking lesson from a busy French woman’s kitchen.

This is when I discovered that French women are full of all sorts of secrets and shortcuts that make them seem super human in the kitchen when, in fact, they are mere mortals. In less than 2 hours we had prepared, cooked and eaten a perfect and delicious Parmentier de Confit de Canard accompanied by a fresh green salad and a lovely bottle of wine.

So what is the secret? A couple of hints:  you won’t find the answer at the butcher’s, but you will find it at your local super marché; no need to head to the milkman’s—no butter, milk or crème fraîche required.

Now keep this on the low down, but the answer comes in a tin.

Only in France can you find a large can of duck legs perfectly preserved in their fat. Add one of Monsieur Parmentier jewels per person, and some garlic powder, and voilà! Parmentier de Confit de Canard Express.

Vocabulaire

Parmentier de Confit de Canard: a dish similar to shepherd’s pie, consisting of a layer of shredded roasted duck legs topped with a layer of mashed potatoes baked briefly at a high temperature to form a golden brown crust on top.

pomme de terre: potatoes; literally earth apples

super marché: supermarket

No.142: The Delicious Colors of Winter

celeryroot-paris-benioff.jpg

herbs-paris-benioff.jpg

winter-salad-paris-market.jpg

broccoli-paris-market.jpg

red-lettuce-paris-market.jpg

beetroot-soup.jpg

café-noisette-paris.jpg

Moi, j’adore!

Vocabulaire

Moi, j’adore! Me, I love (it)!

No. 139: All Things French in English

Before moving to France I took for granted all the things we call “French” in English. Since I’ve lived here, I’ve become curious to find out exactly what those things are.

I mean French bread—loosely refers to a baguette, although much larger and wider in most grocery stores in America. A French braid, I’m very familiar with, as my girls have spent hours plaiting each other’s hair. We all know what a French kiss is, and as teenagers became familiar with “Frenching”, the verb. But what exactly are French lentils or French vanilla? What does French blue mean? And why do we refer to a disgusting mayo, ketchup and sweet relish dressing as “French”, when I’ve never, ever seen it in France?

Donc, whenever I have a long bus ride, or am bored, I’ve been looking up these curious items to figure out what is what. This is what I’ve come up with so far. Some are more obvious than other. As I’m on a diet, today’s post focuses on food, of course…corrections welcome, svp.

French-beans-Paris

  • French beanle haricot vert—a long thin green bean that is eaten whole.
  • French endiveas far as I can tell, is just endive. I think some of us call it chicory.
  • French fryla (pomme de terre) fritefried potato sticks, originating in Belgium, thank you very much.
  • French lentilsles lentilles du Puy—lentils from the French town of Puy. Delicate, earthy, and peppery they hold their shape well, take a little longer to cook, but are perfect for salads.french-lentils-Paris
  • French dip sandwich—beef sandwich dipped into beef juice (au jus)—has anyone ever had one of these in France?
  • French dressingla vinaigrette – I think this is what the French would call French dressing; in the UK “French dressing” is usually vinaigrette, none of that nasty tomato-relish-mayo stuff.
  • French rollun petit pain –I think this is just a generic term for a small single serving roll; also refers to an updo.
  • French roast coffee—named because of the roasting style in France; a double roasted coffee; intense and smoky.
  • French vanilla ice creammade using an egg custard base and having a caramelized and slightly floral taste; also more yellow in color than regular vanilla ice cream.

 french-vanilla-ice-cream

  • French silk piea pie with a chocolate mousse or pudding filling and whipped cream topping; it appears to have originated in the American south. I have never seen it in France.

 frenchsilk-pie

  • French toastle pain perdu—literally “lost bread”; it did not originate in France and soon will be a subject of another post.

Whew.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I need to open my French door to use my French press after taking out my French twist before I have a lie down in my French bed under my French roof…

…to be continued…

No. 138: Brioche: Let them Eat Cake

Qu’ils mangent de la brioche,” or the most common English translation: “Let them eat cake,” was supposedly uttered by Marie Antoinette, wife to King Louis XVI, the last, and possibly most extravagant queen of France. The story goes that upon hearing that her people were enduring difficult times and ongoing bread shortages, she proclaimed, “Then let them eat brioche.”

qu'ils mangent de la brioche...let them eat brioche…

qu’ils mangent de la brioche…let them eat brioche…

As brioche is made from sweeter dough enhanced with butter, eggs, and sugar (limited and luxurious ingredients at the time), brioche was even more out of the reach of the peasants than bread. This declaration was said to reflect the Queen’s obliviousness to the shocking condition of her people, and in the end contributed to her losing her head by guillotine.

source: Kirsten Dunst in “Marie Antoinette,” directed by Sofia Coppola, NYT

source: Kirsten Dunst in “Marie Antoinette,” directed by Sofia Coppola, NYT

Well it turns out there is no evidence that the Queen ever uttered these words et en fait this anecdote was never cited by opponents of the monarchy at the time of the French Revolution. Jean-Jacques Rousseau, political philosopher and composer, more likely wrote it when Marie Antoinette was a young child living in Austria. But even before Rousseau’s writings, it was attributed to Queen Marie-Thérèse the wife of Louis XIV, a hundred years earlier. And way before that, Chinese scholars claim that the phrase originated with an ancient Chinese emperor who, altogether unsympathetic to the fact that his subjects had no rice to eat, said, “Why don’t they eat meat?

Regardless of who did or didn’t say this, or who, unfortunately, lost their head and who didn’t, I have recently been introduced to this slightly sweet, funny-shaped, golden, eggy morning staple, and I can confirm that when I have a choice, I would rather eat brioche than bread, at least for breakfast. And these days, une petite brioche et un petit pain à Paris are each 1€ apiece, so on rare occasions, I let myself eat both.

petite brioche et petit pain

petite brioche et petit pain

Click here for a yummy airy brioche recipe from Fine Cooking. Best served with strawberry jam, lemon curd, or caramel à la fleur de sel.

 

Vocabulaire 

caramel à la fleur de sel: salted caramel

et en fait : and in fact

Qu’ils mangent de la brioche. Let them eat brioche.

une petite brioche et un petit pain à Paris… a small brioche or small roll in Paris…

No. 136-137: Gâteaux et Tartes

I don’t know how many different types of cakes and tarts there are in France, but since there are over 350 different varieties of cheese available here, I’m wagering there has to be at least that many possibilities for decadent dessert.

Gâteau Saint Honoré

Gâteau Saint Honoré

Gâteau au chocolat

Gâteau au chocolat

Charlotte Mont-Blanc…biscuit cuillère, crème vanille, chantilly, marron glacés et crème de marrons...

Charlotte Mont-Blanc…biscuit cuillère, crème vanille, chantilly, marron glacés et crème de marrons…

En France, I have never met a gâteau or tarte I don’t care for, and this being a birthday weekend chez nous, I thought I’d share a few pictures of some of my favorites I’ve indulged in either in reality or in my dreams.

Even when I’m being good (which is most of the time), I’m lucky to be surrounded by this dazzling eye candy. Not only are they delicious on the taste buds, but they are also exquisite works of art.

 Tarte au citron, c'est notre préféré...


Tarte au citron, c’est notre préféré…

Tarte

tarte aux pommes

tarte aux pommes

Gâteaux

Bonne dégustation!

 

Vocabulaire

Bonne dégustation! Enjoy! (literally good tasting)

c’est notre préféré: it’s our favorite

chez nous: at our house

gâteau au chocolat: chocolate cake

gâteau or tarte: cake or tart

tarte aux pommes: apple tart

tarte au citron: lemon tart