No. 92: The Houses of Martinique
The colors of Martinique are a refreshing break from the black of Paris. These brilliant color choices make me smile. How about you?
Posts from the ‘Art’ Category
Dec 24
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Dec 19
No. 86: Marché de Noël
Christmas markets can be found in all the major cities of France, and also in the small villages and hamlets. Most of them are characterized by charming wooden chalets, vin chaud, local food specialties, gingerbread, and lots and lots of saucisson.
They have strayed from their original purpose of supplying rural French femmes au foyer with all the hard to find ingredients for preparing the traditional holiday feast. And while the marché de Noël originated in the northern Alsace region, (belonging to Germany at assorted moments in history) and tend to draws on German Christmas market traditions, these days, at least in Paris most of the “handcrafted” toys and gifts are junky stuff mass produced in China.
That said, I still love them. They do add a terrifically festive feel to France in December. Here are the ones I’ve managed to see this year.
Marché de Noël Suédois, Swedish Church in Paris
I’d never been to a Swedish Christmas market so I really enjoyed this one. It was small and intimate, and the Swedish community was so very friendly. All things Swedish and holiday-ish available, including reindeer sausage, amazing ginger crisps, and of course Swedish meatballs and Glögg. (Held right before Lucia, so you’ve already missed it, but do look for it next year.)
Marché de Noël, La Défense
More than 350 stands, very jolly despite the chalets nestled in the surreal setting of glass high-rise buildings and the ominous Grande Arche. (November 27-December 28.)
Marché de Noël, Avenue des Champs-Elysées
The largest Christmas market within the Paris city limits. Incredibly crowded and best at nighttime—if you are going to brave the throngs of people, you might as well see the lights. (November 15-January 5.)
Marché de Noël, Trocadero
About 100 stands, a “snow” village, and an ice-skating rink with the best view of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Lots of tourist, kiddos, African Eiffel Tower sellers, and pickpockets.
Marché de Noël, Notre Dame Cathedral
Charming and cheery Christmassy views. Good photo opportunities. Beware of the gypsies and their tricks.
Marché de Noël on my bucket list:
Marché de Noël, Strasbourg
The mother of all Christmas markets and the largest and oldest one in France. A pilgrimage for those obsessed with Noël. Set in front of the Strasbourg Cathedral. I’ve seen pictures and the views are spectacular.
Marché de Noël, Bordeaux
Supposedly one of the more “magical” of the French Christmas markets, and of course, a great opportunity to stock up on wine from Bordeaux.
Marché de Noël, Nancy
Even though Nancy, France is my namesake, I have never made it there. I need to. Know for its range of traditional and regional foods and less junk from China.
Vocabulaire
femmes au foyer: housewives
marché de Noël: Christmas markets
saucisson: sausage
vin chaud: mulled wine
No. 85: Edible Christmas Windows
These Christmas windows aren’t just for licking, they are for eating.
Dec 16
No. 82: More Christmas Window Licking
I licked a few more windows this week, but this time exclusively at Printemps. Their windows are sponsored by Prada, oh la la!
They tell less of at story than the windows at Galeries Layafette, instead they combine adorably Prada-dressed or adventure-bound Teddy Bears with luxury products.
More fun than looking at the windows was watching the little children react and see the wonder and excitement in their faces.
Vocabulaire
lèche-vitrine: window shopping (literally, licking the windows)
Printemps: one of the largest department stores in Paris (literally, spring)
No. 81: THE Sapin de Noël
In America we have our National Christmas Tree in Washington D.C., on the Ellipse near the White House.
Photo by Alex Wong/Getty Images
I am wondering if the sapin de Noël at the Galeries Lafayette is the French equivalent of our nation’s tree?
It certainly is enormous (20 meters high), stunning, stylish, and as Paolo de Cesare, Printemps CEO said, “makes a statement for Paris, for France and for the world.”
Perched under the famous cupola in the center of Galeries Lafayette, the tree features a toy village at the base that springs to life on the hour, every hour, and compliments the Christmas window theme: Il était une fois Noël …avant les douze coups de minuit.
The cheerful tree continues the adventures of Lily the doll and Martin the Teddy Bear. As she wakes up their sleepy Christmas village, Monsieur and Madame Wolf, a gang of mischievous mice, a clowder of cats, and a family of snow white owls spring into action to beat the clock and get ready for Noël.
If you can brave the tourists and Christmas shoppers, it’s definitely magical and worth seeing…go early, and get out quickly.
Vocabulaire
Il était une fois Noël …avant les douze coups de minuit: Once upon a time at Christmas…before the clock strikes twelve.
Printemps: one of the largest and fanciest department stores in Paris (literally, spring)
Sapin de Noël: Christmas tree
No. 78: Licking the Christmas Windows
This Christmas with the help of celebrated designers, les grands magasins in Paris have succeeded again in creating magical Christmas windows.
Every December I have been in France, I have spent hours gazing at these fairytale windows, and this year is no exception. At least one day a week I’m out and about licking the gorgeous Christmas windows (lèche-vitrines). The French really know how to dress a window, and I just can’t get enough.
This year’s theme is, “Once upon a Christmas…Before the Clock Strikes Twelve”.
The windows chronicle the journey of rag doll Lilly and a cuddly Teddy Bear as they try to get to Christmas before the stroke of midnight. Their adventure involves meeting and playing with hundreds of furry friends, most notably spirited mice and ritzy monkeys dressed and ready for any escapade, especially ones involving pocket watches and clocks. The windows are whimsical and dreamlike and tempt even the most curmudgeony of the French to crack a smile, find a glimmer of hope and remember the joyful anticipation of being a child at Christmastime.
Vocabulaire
lèche-vitrines: window shopping (literally, licking the windows)
les grands magasins: department stores
Dec 10
No. 72: la guirlande de Noël
The French shopkeepers do a marvelous job of gussying up their storefronts for Noël, doing their best to make it the most wonderful time of the year. The decoration of choice is la guirlande. From the grand boulevards to the smallest alleys and passageways, garland is wrapped around doorframes, dangling from awnings and framing candle-lit windows.
It’s easy to recapture that childlike excitement and anticipation at Christmastime in France.
Enjoy the Christmas magic I’ve come across this week.
Vocabulaire
la guirlande: garland
365+ Things I Love About France 