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Posts from the ‘France’ Category

No. 28: Les petites villes provençales: Cassis

This sweet, low-key town in coastal Provence with soft-hued houses built at funky angles along the seashore is the perfect place to spend an uncrowded and uncharacteristically warm October day.  After a trip to the lively Friday market (filled with the French sweets made best in southern France: calissons, navettes, nougats, candied fruit and sugared almonds), we picnicked on a small-coved beach surrounded by dramatic walls of white limestone. The warm sun, gentle breeze and cooling sea mist were the perfect remedy for our grey-weathered Parisians souls.

Vocabulaire

les petites villes provençales: small Provençale towns

une navette: shuttle service, commute; also a Provençale cookie shaped like a rowboat and flavored with orange blossom, lemon, anise, almonds, chocolate chips and even lavender. For the recipe for these “sugar shuttles”, please click here.

No. 27: Les Calanques, Cassis

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So, this is how the conversation went:

Superman: “I want to go to the calanques!”

Nancy:  “What are the calanques?”

Superman: “ Fjords.”

Nancy: “What’s a fjord?”

Superman: “Fingers in a bay.”

Vocabulaire:

calanques: a steep-walled inlet, cove, or bay that is developed in limestone, dolomite, or other carbonate strata and found along the Mediterranean coast. This calanque is Port Miou. Located in Cassis, 30 km southeast of Marseille.

No. 26: Small(er) People

Initially I thought I’d call this post: Small People.

However, upon reflection, I have concluded that the French actually aren’t as small as they are rumored to be. Only a few short years ago the French were considered small compared to Americans, but now it appears that smaller is the more accurate adjective. The “e-r”, sadly, is a necessary addition.

That said, the Frenchies are still thinner than their American counterparts. Americans claims a 35 percent obesity rate, and this difference in girth is very obvious when you cross the ocean after being away for a long time.

I certainly don’t want to rail against overweight people, but I must admit, I am discouraged by the aspects of our culture that make it so easy to become overweight and complacent. It’s difficult to see so many big folks living large in America.

I recognize that I live in a bit of a bubble in Paris, but the number of extremely hefty people I have seen this past week in America has alarmed me. It’s a HUGE problem (in all senses of the word) for the USA, and it pains me to see that our bad habits and patterns are beginning to make their way to the other side of the Atlantic.

While the French can still claim the title of the slimmest people in Europe, a previously unfathomable 15 percent of France’s population are now obese and over 30 percent are considered overweight. And according to an article recently published in the Daily Telegraph “the most significant weight gains (are) among 18 to 24-year-olds, whose obesity levels have shot up by 35 percent in the past three years.”

French actor Gerard Depardieu Photo: REX FEATURES

French actor Gerard Depardieu Photo: REX FEATURES

I find those statistics staggering and disturbingly familiar. For a country that prides itself on eating small portions, fresh food, and family meals, the French-don’t-get-fat-myth doesn’t quite ring true anymore.

No.25: Small Cars

I love the small cars in France: infinitely better for the environment and pretty darn adorable. Très mignon indeed.

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Vocabulaire

très mignon: very cute

No. 24: Less Fast Food on Offer

…but sadly, a growing industry in France…

As I continue my unanticipated one-week sojourn in America, I am still overwhelmed. I am flabbergasted by the amount of fast food on offer in the land of the free.

flicker.com

flicker.com

I have a 15 minute drive to the YMCA where I have been working out. This morning as I drove my 10 miles, I passed 16 different fast food establishments. I am not in the part of the country where I grew up and there are certainly some interesting choices I’ve never heard of : Eggroll Hut Filipino, Five Guys Burgers & Fries, Captain D’s Seafood Kitchen, Checker’s Drive in, and Churches Chicken, but so far, I haven’t been tempted. However, I seem to be the only one sticking to green smoothies at breakfast time.  Each and every one of the fast food  chains I drove by had at least three or four cars lined up at the drive-thru and more than a large handful of cars in the parking lots…and it was only 7:00 am.

According to statisticbrain.com, as of April 2013, the number of fast food restaurants in America was 160,000, with 50 million Americans served each day and an annual fast food revenue of $110 Billion. Truly, une véritable catastrophe! I know that fast food is the reality in the US and a huge industry, but I really hate to see it making headway into France.

quel dommage...the French are lovin' it too...

quel dommage…the French are lovin’ it too…

Yes, it turns out my France, the country I so often associate with gastronomie and fresh ingredients, is being propped up by fast-food revenues. Fast food chains, according to NPR, now account for 54 percent of all restaurant sales in France. Bon sang! It breaks my heart. There are now more than  a 1,200 McDonald’s in France, which is only 199 shy of what the grand ol’ state of Texas (roughly the same size as France) boasts.

Quel dommage! It really bums me out.

source: aht.seriouseats.com - by j.edwards

source: aht.seriouseats.com – by j.edwards

Still, I am grateful all these other chains have not yet made it across the ocean. I hope that France grows more of a backbone, and remembers that real food and real ingredients can continue to define their country, if only they don’t give in…

Vocabulaire

Bon sang! Damn, damn it!

gastronomie: gastronomy

Quel dommage! What a shame! That’s too bad.

une véritable catastrophe: a real disaster/catastrophe

No. 20-23: Less is More

I had to make an unexpected trip to the USA this week.

After trying so hard to get into my French life and gearing my family up for what is sure to be another adventure-filled year in gay Par-ee, this trip back to the land of the LARGE and PLENTY has really thrown me for a loop. I have found it difficult to concentrate and be productive. There is so much STUFF in America to get distracted by; it’s hard to focus. Is it any wonder that we hand out anti-anxiety and ADHD medication like candy on Halloween?Halloween candy

I do love the fact that in France, there still appears to be some restraint, and maybe even a sense of national pride in the idea that LESS is more. In general, in France quality surpasses quantity, and I find there are a good many Frenchies committed to this idea.

Here are a few of the larger things I have encountered in the last week in America and the smaller counterparts I enjoy in France:

No. 20: Smaller Shops & Les Petites Boutiques Familiales

For those of you who live in the USA or have visited, I have one word for you: Costco.

For those of you who have never been to America, an explanation: Costco Wholesale Corporation is a membership-only warehouse club that provides a wide selection of merchandise; it is the second largest retailer in the United States, the seventh largest retailer in the world and the largest membership warehouse club chain in the United States. (Wikipedia)

Need a couple of pounds of something? How about 10?

Need a couple of pounds of something? How about 10?

and, you can buy everything and anything there…in very LARGE quantities.

I know the megastores are convenient and cheap, but it is such a pleasure (albeit sometimes a pain) to live somewhere where the mom and pop and artisan stores are still thriving right around the corner. Yes, sometimes you have to go to six or seven shops in one day just to get everything you need for a dinner party, but for me it is much more satisfying to frequent these small shops than to shop in a warehouse or strip mall.

No. 21: Product Packaging

Jumbo tunaI haven’t quite figured out what I would do with 4lbs 2 ½ oz (2 kg) of tuna, although I if I had the space in my tiny Parisian freezer I could finish 6.75 lbs  (3.1 kg) of edamame ( j’adore edamame).IMG_1574

With Thanksgiving and Christmas just around the corner, I suppose I could finish a 3 lbs (1.4 kg) bag of fresh cranberries, if I had the time (and American oven) to make cranberry bread for my whole apartment building.Cranberries

And, look at this, Costco has even taken on the French Macaron, and prepackaged an entire pound of these artisanal French cookies…imagine the money I could save as macarons are 2 euros ($3) a pop in Paris.  What would Ladurée say?Macarons

No 22: Fewer Choices

As my trip was last-minute and I needed to quickly pack a small carry-on, I forgot to bring some of my toiletries. So, my first stop was the “small” local grocery store. All I needed was shampoo. Once I finally tracked down the shampoo aisle, I froze.  I stared. I panicked. My breath sped up. There was so much frickin’ shampoo! I almost lost my nerve.product

It only took me 30 minutes to decide, and I’m happy to report, I do have clean hair now, but choosing wasn’t easy.

No 23: Fewer Sales

After staying in the USA for more than a week, I realized how much sales drive our consumer culture and influence my personal shopping habits. Returning to this always-a-sale craze, I now understand how much this phenomenon contributes to our country’s economy (and debt).ann-taylor-loft-sale1

In France les soldes (the sales) are few and far between. In fact they are state-regulated and are held only twice a year, mid-June and early January. They last for around six weeks and prices are continually slashed over the weeks, ending with the dregs being sold for as low as 90 percent off regular prices. I usually go shopping once or twice during these 6-week periods, and come away with one or two precious finds.

In contrast, in America something is always on sale, and often at a pretty steeply discounted rate. I am not sure if it was my anxious state of mind due to the unexpected nature of my visit back, but my sales-shock, drove me to purchase (and then return) things I really had no room or need for back in Paris. (Thank goodness for carry-on luggage restrictions!) Still, it did get me thinking about how sales contribute to America’s insatiable desire to own and consume.

All in all, I find that the less-is-more mentality in France makes me very happy. I’m glad to be constantly reminded that quality is so much more important than quantity.

Vocabulaire

j’adore edamame: I love edamame (soybeans)

les petites boutiques familiales: mom and pop stores

les soldes: the sales

No. 19: Love Advice from la Poste

Source: James Molgaard

Source: James Molgaard

I’m not sure if it’s true, but I have the impression that the French have been groomed to think about love from a very early age. After all, French is the language of love, and romance and France are often mentioned in the same breath.

And now la poste is getting in on the act. And why not? They are, after all, French postmen (and women).la poste love advice

Yep. Yesterday la poste was offering love advice at the Fête des Vendanges in Montmartre. As it was not only a celebration of wine and wine making, but also a celebration of l’amour, it seemed only natural (in a French way) for the uncharacteristically jolly postpeople to be counselling the crowd about love.

love advice from la poste

love advice from la poste

The advice for lovers is the kick-off for “Écrivez l’Amour”, a contest sponsored by la poste, to see who can write the most beautiful love letter (in 25 lines or less, handwritten, please).

Stay tuned for the winning letters announced in December.

Vocabulaire

écrire: to write

fête des vendanges: grape harvest festival

l’amour: love

la poste: the post office